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Wrc 10 fanatec settings3/23/2023 > Overall Vibration 100 / Tyre Slip 10-30 / Suspension 50-80 / Ground Surface 0 / Engine 0-30 / Collision 50 So if you are mainly in over revving this is noise. Ground Surface: Completely useless set to 0Įngine: Vibrations if you rev up the motor and if going into the red. Suspension: The most important vibration to feel the surface. Interferes with grip feeling on gravel and snow. Tyre Slip: This is mainly noise so dial it down this are canned effects if loosing grip. Most vibrations will muddy and overwhelm the FFB with canned effects. *** WRC 10 Vibrations (most should be turned down or set to 0) > Overall Force 100 / Self Aligning Torque 100 / Tyre Load 100 / Self Centre 100 / Recenter Force (in menue) I use 50 It seems also that it's best to have the in game settings at default as they are depending on each other internally. It's a important force to let us feel the grip. It primarily tries to return the wheel to center and supports SAT by adding a natural weight to the wheel. Self Center: This is a little tricky it interacts with SAT and Tyre load. Tyre Load: It should be the steering weight (description) but we get shock forces like jumps, bumps etc. So on straights there is nearly nothing to feel. Self Aligning Torque (SAT): SAT is the main force when the tyre loads up but in WRC this force need a significant load to feel it. WRC uses all channels the normal FOR but also SPR and DPR so all have to be enabled and you can dial it to your liking. I use a DD2 with BME, APM and a round wheel (so it a little heavier as the Porsche wheel). From experience with WRC 9 and re-checked with WRC 10 there are a few things to know. WRC 10 seems to use the FFB channels not like other games so it's not so easy to find suitable settings. Also would be very interested to see if anyone else has some recommendations to improve it. Given how new the game is, and some reports of people returning it already, I hope this helps. Admittedly I haven't looked into the details of which vibration sub-elements would be more useful than others yet, and this will be my next step. This resulted in a nice smooth drivable car, without the horrible noise/vibration but still a little bit of something/road noise in the background. WRC GAME: Max Wheel Angle 540 (default), Force and Effects all 100 (the default), Overall Vibration <10 to taste (currently at 5 for me), with all sub-elements of vibration left at 100. So after an hour or two of playing I came up with the following settings:ĬSW2.5 WHEELBASE: SEN 900, FF 65, DRI OFF, FEI 50. It can be fixed though, so I wouldn't recommend racing off to refund the game straight away! it nearly shook my seat apart with the over cooked vibrations that just seem like simple 'buzzing', that increase with vehicle speed, engine revs and tyre slip. I found the base settings (named 'Fanatec Racing Wheel' in the game) to be horrible, pretty much broken. I've got a classic V2 wheel on (350mm dia) so worth considering if the settings below are too heavy for anyone on a smaller wheel you'll just need to drop the FF a little bit. Just throwing ideas out there after my first attempt at playing WRC 10 on a CSW2.5, and XBOX Series X.
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